On Sunday morning, we noticed a terrible rattling sound coming from what seemed to be our engine. Miraculously, the good people of Missoula gave us equally good advice and told us where to go. Waiting for repairs, we walked along peaceful Rattlesnake creek, bought poetry books from a girl about to move to New Mexico, and peeked into some of the bars and nearby towns we’ve read about. Many thanks to our ever gracious and knowledgeable host Lois Welch (who, along with her husband – the great and since passed writer James Welch – was close friends with Hugo,) for lending us her car for the day. Milltown, Philipsburg and beyond.